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St-Albert, Ontario

St-Albert is a small Franco-Ontarian village in Eastern Ontario, located about 48 kilometres southeast of Ottawa, the Canadian capital. It is traversed by the Nation river, has a small town centre and is surrounded by farmland. The majority of the population speaks both French and English. Previously referred to as “St-Albert-de-Cambridge”, the village was located in the southern portion of the old township of Cambridge (which ceased to exist after municipal fusions in 1998).  

Though aboriginal people are thought to have travelled through St-Albert and along the Nation river, there exists no evidence that a permanent settlement ever existed here until colonists of European descendance arrived. As early as 1804, some tracts of land in St-Albert were allocated to at least a dozen United Empire Loyalists, American Loyalists who resettled in British North America during or after the American Revolution. However, these landowners never actually settled in St-Albert, preferring to remain further south along the banks of the St-Lawrence river.

Between 1840 and 1850, a more sizeable group of migrants made their way to St-Albert. They were mostly of Scottish origin, with family names like McRae, McKinnon, Ferguson, Campbell and Cameron. About one hundred colonists had settled here by 1842. The first 6 or 7 French-Canadian families arrived in St-Albert by 1851 and were recorded in the census that year.  

In 1857, the first two public schools in the area were opened, followed a decade later by a third school. By 1861, there were 369 people living in the village, mostly living on lots they were farming. The census that year lists many French-Canadian family names: Génier, Labelle, Chartrand, Allaire, Carrière, Turpin, Lafrance, Lapensée, Bouchard, Payette, Clément, Papineau, Godard, Pilon, Guibault, Quesnel, Arbique and Potvin.

By 1873, more French family names were noted: Blondin, Legault dit Deslauriers, Laflèche, Dupuit, Benoît, Sanche, Renaud, Rainville, Meilleur, Lamoureux, Pagé, Clément, Beauchamp, Brunet and Lebrun. Most of these French-Canadian colonists came from nearby Embrun in Canada-West (present-day Ontario) and St-Jacques-de-l’Achigan, St-Augustin, St-Jérôme, St-Hermas, Laprairie and Ste-Scholastique in Canada-East (present-day province of Québec).

The parish of St-Albert was created in 1874, the year of the village’s official founding. A small chapel was built two years later and the current church was built in 1881. The first priest was Albert Philion and the first religious ceremony performed was the baptism of Marie Pagé.

Around this time, a post office and blacksmith shop were built, and a small store was constructed in the town centre (first owned by a Mr. Fortier, then a Mr. Faulkner). Later, an inn was erected (its individual owners over time were Joseph Vallée, Midas Vallée, Damase Meilleur, Charles Desautels and Narcisse Lapointe, Josephat Quenneville, Jean Ouimet and a Mr. Lauzon).

Once the Canada Atlantic Railway line was constructed in 1882, immigration shifted to the nearby villages of Casselman and South Indian (present-day Limoges), through which the railroad passed directly. St-Albert’s population decreased steadily in the 20th century, due to three primary reasons: the end of the land-clearing period, the mechanization of farms and the abandonment of unproductive lands.

The population reached its peak around 1910, when the village consisted mostly of French-Canadian families. It was at this time that the first telephone line was installed in St-Albert by the Glasgow Telephone Company (purchased by the Bell Telephone Company in 1938). Electricity came to the village in 1930.  

Lumberjacks & “Beef Shoe” Makers

The first industry to be developed in Cambridge Township was forestry. In St-Albert’s early days, men would work as lumberjacks during the winter, land clearers in the summer, hunters and fishermen when the season permitted it, and artisans on bad-weather days. Their land would be used to farm oats for cattle, linseed for clothing and wheat for food. On inclement weather days, men would sheer sheep, tan leather, make leather shoes (“souliers de boeuf” — literally “beef shoes”) and candles from tallow (animal fat). Needless to say, most families were quite poor and had to be self-sufficient. Agriculture eventually became the primary industry, with farmers selling their crops further south along the St-Lawrence river.

Other smaller industries were also present. One family in particular, the Quesnels, produced potash made from hardwood ash. The Laflèche family included many coopers. Louis Lafrance made clapboards for roofing. St-Albert also had many joiners: Fortunat Bélanger, André Roy, Auguste Lapointe and Azarie Chartrand. Joseph Bélanger was one of the first shoemakers of the village. Léonard Lafleur built St-Albert’s first forge. In 1882, the first steam sawmill, called the Leduc sawmill, was built. By 1886, a new phase of the rural economy started when the first cheese factory was built by Damase Meilleur.

Dairy became the most important industry — in particular the making of cheddar. During the summer, cheese would be produced, while in the winter butter would be made, and milk and cream would be sent to city creameries.   

The Big Cheese

Cheesemakers in St-Albert began making cheddar, which they called the “St-Albert”, in the late 19th century. In 1894, Louis Génier and 9 other partners started the St-Albert Cheese Cooperative, which consisted of small local cheese factories. Each founding member paid $12.50 per share and put up $200 to buy a one-acre building site. Génier already owned 180 acres of farmland and was the reeve of the township. In 1950, a new building was erected to produce milk and cheese. At this time, there were only about 40 homes in all of St-Albert.

Today, St-Albert is most famous for its cheese factory, La Fromagerie St-Albert, which has been producing cheese for 125 years. In fact, it’s one of the oldest cooperatives in all of Canada and is St-Albert’s main employer.

Over 220 employees work at the cheese co-op, and it is owned by some 35 member farms with 80 individuals. The coop’s claim to fame is its delicious, squeaky cheese curd, an essential ingredient in the most iconic French-Canadian dish, the poutine. In 1994, to commemorate the 100th anniversary of St-Albert Cheese, the town hosted its inaugural “Festival de la Curd” (cheese curd festival), now an annual summertime event featuring big top tents, musicians, various shows, and of course, cheese.   

Tragedy struck the town in February 2013 when a fire completely ravaged the cheese factory. About one fifth of the town was left without work. However, production was relocated to temporary locations and the plant was rebuilt a year later. Despite this tragedy, the Co-operative managed to earn the title of Grand champion at the 86th edition of the British Empire Cheese Show in 2013, an incredible feat.

The new plant is about 30% bigger, more modern, and with added attractions such as observation decks, a restaurant and much larger retail shop. A visitor centre and museum are currently in development.

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Sources:

• Legault, Roland, Monographie sur la paroisse de Saint-Albert-de-Cambridge, thesis presented to the Faculty of Arts at the University of Ottawa, 1950, Proquest Dissertations (https://137.122.9.184/bitstream/10393/21949/1/EC55483.PDF : accessed 30 Jul 2019)

• “A Brief History of the St-Albert Cheese Co-Operative”, Fromages St-Albert (http://fromagestalbert.com/about/st-albert-cheese/?lang=en : accessed 8 Jul 2019).

• “St-Albert d’hier à aujourd’hui", Municipalité de St-Albert (http://www.munstalbert.ca/  accessed 8 Jul 2019).

Photo Credits:

1. “Photo de l’église de st-albert ont. et du presbytère", digital image of an 1878 photo (photographer unknown), Digital Prescott Russell en Numérique (http://images.ourontario.ca/PrescottRussell/2305817/image/924871?n=3 : accessed 8 Jul 2019). 

2. “Vue de St-Albert", digital image of a c. 1880 photo (photographer unknown), Digital Prescott Russell en Numérique (http://images.ourontario.ca/PrescottRussell/1638810/data?n=6 : accessed 8 Jul 2019). Additional information: Left: Victor Bélanger’s carpentry chop. Centre: Godfroy Clémont’s blacksmith shop. Right: the house of Louis Bourgeois, one of the first houses in St-Albert, where mass was celebrated before the construction of the church.

3. “Louis Genier et sa deuxième femme, Célina Quesnel", digital image of a c. 1890 photo (photographer unknown) donated by Lucien Cayer, Digital Prescott Russell en Numérique (http://images.ourontario.ca/PrescottRussell/1638838/data?n=9 : accessed 8 Jul 2019). Additional info: Former Mayor of Cambridge and Farmer of St. Albert.

4. “M. et Mme Alex Clément", digital image of a circa 1890 photo donated by Aurélia Legault, Digital Prescott Russell en Numérique (http://images.ourontario.ca/PrescottRussell/1638811/data?n=12 : accessed 8 Jul 2019). Additional info: Mr. Clément was the second owner of the Hotel St-Albert.

5. “The first Fromagerie St-Albert in 1894”, digital image of an 1894 photo, used with permission, Fromagerie St-Albert (http://fromagestalbert.com/about/st-albert-cheese/?lang=en : accessed 8 Jul 2019).

6. “Famille Jean-Baptiste Grégoire de St-Albert", digital image of an 1895 photo by photographer Runions of Avonmore donated by Mme Raymond, Digital Prescott Russell en Numérique (http://images.ourontario.ca/PrescottRussell/1638809/data?n=14 : accessed 8 Jul 2019). Additional info: From right to left at the back: Baptiste, Arthur, Viateur. Woman on the right: Jean Ouimet's wife. Woman on the left: Victor Bélanger's wife.

7. “Jos Laplante et son épouse Azilda Adam De Saint-Albert", digital image of a circa 1895 photo by photographer J.B. Dorion of Ottawa donated by Alphonse Adam, Digital Prescott Russell en Numérique (http://images.ourontario.ca/PrescottRussell/2261571/data?n=15 : accessed 8 Jul 2019).

8. “Ulric Lucier”, digital image of a 1900 photo by photographer Archambault of Montreal donated by Alphonse Adam, Digital Prescott Russell en Numérique (http://images.ourontario.ca/PrescottRussell/2259262/data?n=10 : accessed 8 Jul 2019). Additional info: Lucier was a farmer of St. Albert.

9. “Jean Baptiste Clément et sa femme Delphine Labelle", digital image of a c. 1900 photo by L. Côté of Montreal donated by Alphonse Adam, Digital Prescott Russell en Numérique (http://images.ourontario.ca/PrescottRussell/2259306/data?n=13 : accessed 8 Jul 2019).

10. “Les élèves de l'école no.9", digital image of a c. 1900 photo by Mclean et Franch donated by Mme Armand Quesnel, Digital Prescott Russell en Numérique (http://images.ourontario.ca/PrescottRussell/1638834/data?n=11 : accessed 8 Jul 2019). Additional info: this was the first French school of St-Albert.

11. “Joseph Labelle et ses petits enfants", digital image of a c. 1900 photo by J.M. Ford of Ottawa donated by Alphonse Adam, Digital Prescott Russell en Numérique (http://images.ourontario.ca/PrescottRussell/1638805/data?n=7 : accessed 8 Jul 2019). Additional info: Mr. Labelle was the “postillon” of St-Albert (postmaster on horseback).

12. “L'hôtel St-Albert lors du mariage de M. et Mme Moise Bourgeois", digital image of a 1903 photo (photographer unknown), Digital Prescott Russell en Numérique (http://images.ourontario.ca/PrescottRussell/1638812/data?n=5 : accessed 8 Jul 2019). 

13. " Claura Ouimet, lors de sa Première Communion", digital image of a 1907 photo (photographer unknown) donated by Alphonse Adam, Digital Prescott Russell en Numérique (http://images.ourontario.ca/PrescottRussell/1638807/data?n=22 : accessed 8 Jul 2019).  

14. " Portrait d'une communiante", digital image of an undated photo by B. Chalifoux of Montreal donated by Alphonse Adam, Digital Prescott Russell en Numérique (http://images.ourontario.ca/PrescottRussell/2261832/data?n=24 : accessed 8 Jul 2019). 

15. " La famille Antoine Quesnel devant leur domicile", digital image of a 1908 photo (photographer unknown) donated by Mme Armand Quesnel, Digital Prescott Russell en Numérique (http://images.ourontario.ca/PrescottRussell/1638815/data?n=23 : accessed 8 Jul 2019).  

16. "Famille Jean Baptiste Ouimet", digital image of a 1910 photo (photographer unknown), Digital Prescott Russell en Numérique (http://images.ourontario.ca/PrescottRussell/1638808/data?n=20 : accessed 8 Jul 2019).  

17. "Mme Grégoire et ses petits enfants", digital image of a 1914 photo (photographer unknown) donated by Mme Raymond, Digital Prescott Russell en Numérique (http://images.ourontario.ca/PrescottRussell/1638806/data?n=21 : accessed 8 Jul 2019).

18. "Les filles d'Antoine Quesnel", digital image of a 1916 photo (photographer unknown) donated by Mme Armand Quesnel, Digital Prescott Russell en Numérique (http://images.ourontario.ca/PrescottRussell/1638813/data?n=25 : accessed 8 Jul 2019). Additional info: Alma, Yvonne, Odélide, Alberta et Exilia Quesnel.

19. “Photo de l'église de st-albert ont. et du presbytère”, digital image of a photo collage, Digital Prescott Russell en Numérique (http://images.ourontario.ca/PrescottRussell/2305714/data?n=1 : accessed 8 Jul 2019). 

20. “St. Albert Man Dragged to Death”, 27 Dec 1937 article published in The Ottawa Citizen, page 13, Newspapers.com (https://www.newspapers.com/image/46292989 : accessed 8 Jul 2019).

21. “Drives Off Ferry St. Albert Man Drowned in River”, 26 Jun 1948 article published in The Ottawa Citizen, page 15, Newspapers.com (https://www.newspapers.com/image/456552513 : accessed 8 Jul 2019).

22. “St-Albert Co-Op in 1950”, digital image of an 1950 photo, used with permission, Fromagerie St-Albert (http://fromagestalbert.com/about/st-albert-cheese/?lang=en : accessed 8 Jul 2019).

23.  “Rev. E. Lajoie Retired Pastor Dies”, 16 May 1955 article published in The Ottawa Citizen, page 16, Newspapers.com (https://www.newspapers.com/image/456816400 : accessed 8 Jul 2019).

24. “Youth dies after tractor falls on him”, 3 Aug 1965 article published in The Ottawa Citizen, page 38, Newspapers.com (https://www.newspapers.com/image/457353453 : accessed 8 Jul 2019).

25. Dan Karon, “Cheese plant fears end in sight”, 29 Dec 1978 article published in The Ottawa Citizen, page 3, Newspapers.com (https://www.newspapers.com/image/460401445 : accessed 8 Jul 2019).

26. James Quig, “How one corner of Ontario lives entirely in French”, 23 Oct 1982 article published in The Gazette, page B1, Newspapers.com (https://www.newspapers.com/image/422324034 : accessed 8 Jul 2019).

27. Dennis Foley, “Hamlet delivers protest message to Canada Post”, 16 Apr 1987 article published in The Ottawa Citizen, page 6, Newspapers.com (https://www.newspapers.com/image/463601226 : accessed 8 Jul 2019).

28. Ina Swedler, “Cowbell noise issue first for new board”, 20 Jul 1989 article published in The Ottawa Citizen, page 3, Newspapers.com (https://www.newspapers.com/image/464029643 : accessed 8 Jul 2019).

29. Alana Kainz, “Cheese factory fights bitter battle with board to get milk quota raised”, 17 Oct 1989 article published in The Ottawa Citizen, page 17, Newspapers.com (https://www.newspapers.com/image/463720848 : accessed 8 Jul 2019).

30. Jamie McDonell, “Quota cut is retribution, says cheese co-op”, 1 Nov 1989 article published in The Ottawa Citizen, page 3, Newspapers.com (https://www.newspapers.com/image/463887017 : accessed 8 Jul 2019).

31. Maria Bohuslawsky & Peter Hum, “Curd makers vow to fight the Big Cheese”, 21 Nov 1992 article published in The Ottawa Citizen, page 48, Newspapers.com (https://www.newspapers.com/image/464665725 : accessed 8 Jul 2019).

32. Bert Hill, "Cheese co-op gets better with age”, ­28 Jan 1994 article published in The Ottawa Citizen, page 47, Newspapers.com (https://www.newspapers.com/image/464903016 : accessed 8 Jul 2019). 

33. Wayne Roberts, Rod MacRae & Lori Stahlbrand, “real food”, 13 Jun 1999 article published in The Ottawa Citizen, page 32-33, Newspapers.com (https://www.newspapers.com/image/465903972 : accessed 8 Jul 2019). 

34. Colin Grey, “St. Albert farmer twice lucky”, 27 Jun 1999 article published in The Ottawa Citizen, page 15, Newspapers.com (https://www.newspapers.com/image/465867557 : accessed 8 Jul 2019). 

35. Terrance Wills, “Growing up French in Ontario”, 19 Jul 1999 article published in The Gazette, page 5, Newspapers.com (https://www.newspapers.com/image/425382134 : accessed 8 Jul 2019).

36. Ron Corbett, “Ontario’s francophone centres doing just fine without sign law”, 24 Jul 1999 article published in The Ottawa Citizen, page 3, Newspapers.com (https://www.newspapers.com/image/465899631 : accessed 8 Jul 2019). 

37. Teresa Smith, “Fire guts famous cheese factory”, 4 Feb 2013 article published in The Ottawa Citizen, pages 1-2, Newspapers.com (https://www.newspapers.com/image/468573538 : accessed 8 Jul 2019).

38. Shaamini Yogaretnam, “Cheese fest goes on, plant to rebuild”, 5 Feb 2013 article published in The Ottawa Citizen, pages 19 & 22, Newspapers.com (https://www.newspapers.com/image/468574929 : accessed 8 Jul 2019).

39. Tom Spears, “Poutine-lovers can relax”, 7 Feb 2013 article published in The Ottawa Citizen, page C3, Newspapers.com (https://www.newspapers.com/image/468576520 : accessed 8 Jul 2019).

40. Tom Spears, “St-Albert Cheese slowly rising from the ashes”, 16 Mar 2013 article published in The Ottawa Citizen, page 35, Newspapers.com (https://www.newspapers.com/image/468538211 : accessed 8 Jul 2019).

41. Tony Lofaro, “St. Albert hosts Curd Festival”, 1 Aug 2013 article published in The Ottawa Citizen, page D6, Newspapers.com (https://www.newspapers.com/image/468522234 : accessed 8 Jul 2019).

42. Kristin Goff, “Charred Icon once again the Big Cheese”, 21 Feb 2015 article published in The Ottawa Citizen, page H2, Newspapers.com (https://www.newspapers.com/image/468574456 : accessed 8 Jul 2019).

43. “St-Albert (The Nation Township), Ontario, Canada”, digital image of a June 2010 photo by Wikipedia Commons Author P199, Wikipedia Commons (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:St-Albert_ON.JPG : accessed 8 Jul 2019)